To start with, I decided that it would be better/easier for you that read my little blog if I separated the Greek text from the English, initially I googled if I can have a second page in the same blog but my search was not fruitful and it appears you can’t do it on wordpress.com, if you know smth different please do share. So, I created another site for the Greek language posts, it is a bit more work than before but I’ll see how I’ll manage to do that as time goes by, unfortunatelly the theme I’m currantly using is not available anymore so I had to choose another theme for that one.
Back on sewing now,last March I bought a gabardine fabric with quite a bold print, the moment I saw it I wanted to make a trench coat with it.
When the time had come to make it and I started searching my patterns and Burda magazines I run into Clare Coat from Closet Case Files. View B of this pattern features a double breasted front, hip length, inseam pockets, full length raglan sleeves and a dramatic funnel collar. At that point I thought it would be fun to play around with this pattern and try to make a trench out of it.
This post is about the modifications I did to make the coat, unfortunately I didn’t take detailed pictures during the making but I did take detailed notes of every step and although I’m not sure that what I did was correct nor I have the knowledge to modify patterns, what I did worked for my coat and I thought it would be interesting to share with you.
According to the size chart I was a size 14, having read though the first reviews for this pattern one thing that was mentioned was that the sleeves are a bit tight and as my arms are quite big I knew it would be an issue which I would have to deal with so what I did was to lower the armhole in the side panel
by 1 cm and add 1 cm on the sleeve. Also I shortened the sleeve length by 6 cm.
Next thing I did was to lengthen all the body pattern pieces to knee length, I added 4 cm in the waist short/lengthen lines and 10 cm above the hem as shown in the picture hereunder (I’m 1.60 cm tall).
The pattern features a funnel collar and the neckline is lower than on a usual Trench Coat so to figure out how much I needed to raise it and check if the changes made on the sleeve work I made a muslin.
The sleeve turned out to be OK with a blouse underneath but wearing a pullover or anything heavier would have been impossible so in case I make a winter coat I will have to lower the armhole a bit more but I left it like this for the Trench.
For the neckline I increased the middle front by 3.5 cm and all the way around for all the pattern pieces for 2.5cm.
Regarding the collar I had the idea to try if the collar pattern of the McCall’s 6696 Shirtdress could do the job, I was quite lucky with that as it fitted very well with no modification needed.
Next was drafting the design features that make a classic Trench Coat:
1) Storm Shield
2) Gun Flap
4 ) Sleeve Straps
For the Storm Shield and the Gun Flap I used the front and back pattern pieces to draft them as shown in the pictures hereunder.
Epaulettes are 4cms wide and 21 cm long fold in half with triangled ends.
Sleeve Straps 4cm wide and 32 cm long, I would prefer these to be a bit longer though.
Belt 3.5cm wide 1.60m long (determined by the buckle size)
So, that’s it for now, soon will be sharing the final coat!
UPDATE: I’ve added above the information about the collar pattern as I had forgotten to mention it in the first place!